GUATEMALAN TEXTILE STUDY COLLECTION


GH18  “Huipil”  woman’s blouse from Zacualpa 
Backstrap woven cotton warp faced, 2 panels, 14 inch each, in red with green pin stripe ground, 27 inches to the shoulder.  Panels joined by multicolored randa of blanket stitch.  Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade the heavy zig zag/arrow twined look unique to this village, top 8 inches of the shoulder, front and back.
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   GH17  “Huipil”  woman’s blouse from Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Mam speaking group, Guatemala. 
Backstrap woven warp faced cotton 3 panels, 32 inches to the shoulder.  Center panel red and white with blue and green pin stripes, 12 inches wide,  Side panels red with blue stripes, white pin stripes, 12 inches wide. Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade, wool/acrylic, in bright colored zig zags between stripes of weft faced red wool/acrylic, center panel only, front and back.  Cotton fabric with rick rack sewn on it in radiating design
and velvet around neck.  Lolli purchased from Kim Burda (selling for a friend) 1989 – 1990  $15
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GH32 “Huipil” woman’s blouse from San Juan Cotzal (Sez Marlene  Placido)
Guatemala.  Backstrap woven warp faced black cotton base, 4 selvedge, 3 panels, center 18 in. wide, sides 7 in. wide. 24 inches to shoulder. Center panel 18 – 20 inches  of Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of birds and diamonds (front and back).  Side panels less extensive chain stitch embroidery around neck area. Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021,  who bought it in Antigua in the 1980’s.
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GH24  Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised surface  weft brocade  dots (stars) front and back solar plexus area.  Appliqué sun burst around neck & moon roundels on top of shoulders.      
Lolli bought at the South San Francisco Saint Vincent de Paul for $9.50, 1995
 GH33 “Huipil” woman’s blouse from San Juan Cotzal?  Guatemala.  
Backstrap woven warp faced black cotton base, much faded in center panel, with additional cotton sheeting sewn on to cut bottom.  3 panels, center & sides each 14 in. wide.  Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of deer, human couples, and geometrics.  Commercial black cotton sheeting added to bottom of 4 
selvedge to make it longer, probably not done by the weaver.  Commercial embroidered flowers stitched to neck with added crochet edging.  Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021,  who bought it in Antigua in the 1980’s.
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GH23 Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade dots (stars?) front and back solar plexus area.  With appliqué sun burst around neck & roundels (moons) on top of shoulders.   Gift from Becky Evans, College of the Redwoods, Spring 2008
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 GH9 Embroidered Huipil top (cut away frombody and overdyed with light blue) San Mateo Ixtatan, Huehuetenango
state, Chuj speaking group in the far Northwest of Guatemala.  Rowe says it’s the only Chuj village with a costume that is documented. 2- 4 layers of commercial cotton (muslin) ground covered with embroidery in large cotton or acrylic in “false satin stitch.  The needle catches a small amount of fabric at the edge of the design before crossing the pattern area on the front” sez Rowe.   Worn outside the skirt.  Collected by Anne Kissack in the early 1970’s
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 GH12  Little girls Huipil from Zacualpa.  Has a masking tape label saying “Comalapa, San Juan __ute,” Backstrap woven warp faced cotton in 2 panels 9 inches wide with randa at neck.  Strong yellow and red. 15 inches long at the shoulder with discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade. front and back at the neck only in the unique zig zag unique to this village.  Lolli bought at a thrift shop in Panajachel, 1995  Q30 / $6
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GH25 Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced tan cotton ground, 4 selvedge (showing the last sheds), 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised weft brocade  flowers (started in use in the 1960’s, an adaptation of European cross-stitch embroidery books says Rowe) on front and back solar plexus area.  Chain stitch sun burst around neck, moon  roundels on top of shoulders.  
Lolli bought from Albertina Lopez Cumez. $40  1980’s?
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 GH20  “Huipil”   from Coban,(Santo Domingo)  Guatemala
Backstrap woven transparent gauze / plain weave (what Lily de Jongh Osborne calls ‘shadow weave’) white  cotton with    Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade white on white cotton (called pikbil), small geometrics and horses? 1 panel  34 inches wide, 24 inches to shoulder.  With embroidery around neck & sleeve, both sides.  See “Sheer Elegance:  Surviving Strands of Ancient Maya Weaving” Video by Endangered Threads on YouTube
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 GH26  “Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced handspun natural brown cotton coyuche/ixcaco  (also for weft) ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels. Center 11 inch, sides 8 ½) joined by multicolored randa  in blanket stitch. Design area Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade “velvet” (raised brocade unique to Chichi) flowers (see above), in wool/acrylic/rayon on front and back solar plexus area.  With appliqué sun burst around neck and moon roundels on top of shoulders.                 
Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021.  
She bought it on the streets of Antigua in the 1980’s.
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GH21  Woman’s Wedding  blouse/dress from Coban
White on White Pikbil Backstrap woven warp faced panels with discontinuous supplementary weft brocade.  European styled with ruffled neck with yellow ribbon that ran.  From Jennifer Harris? #36
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 GBL10  Belt/sash from Nebaj 
Backstrap woven, 4 selvedge (loops at the ends) warp faced cotton in Red, white, and smaller black stripe ground, narrower for the last 8 inches on both ends from grouping warps in multiples to make a 1 ½ inch band at the end of the 3/ ½ inch wide belt,  92 inches long.  Has a section of discontinuous supplementary multicolored cotton weft diamonds that start from one end only and running 28 inches and can’t be seen on the back. Very clean and new looking.  From Holly Brackmann, Winter  2016.
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 GF5  Man’s Cofradia? “Tzute” from Chichicastenango, Guatemala. 
2 Backstrap woven warp faced cotton 4 selvedge panels, 15 inches each,  joined by full length blanket stitch multi-colored cotton randa of multi-colored blanket stitch for total of  30 x 31 inches.  Purple Tassels all 4 corners. Red with black pin stripe cotton ground with cotton discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade.
Zig zag (stylized double headed eagles?) and dots (stars?)  Alice Knapp bought at a sale at the Mendocino Art Center
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GBL9  Woman’s skirt Belt/sash from Nebaj  Backstrap woven warp 
faced cotton in red and white stripe ground, pointed on both ends from pulling weft in tighter, ending in cut warp ends. 4 inches wide, 112 inches long.  Has a section of discontinuous supplementary multicolored cotton weft diamonds that start from one end only and run 28 inches and can’t be seen on the back. From Susan Maresco, Spring 2019.  She says its from the 1970’s or earlier.
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 GF8 Tzute” from  Chichicastenango, Guatemala. 
2 Backstrap woven warp faced cotton panels, each 10 inches wide, joined by full length blanket stitch multi-colored cotton randa in blanket stitch for total of 20 X 29 inches.  Hemmed at warp end edge. 1 panel green cotton ground, the other green and black warp face ground, with cotton discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade, flowers and mostly diamonds.       Anne Kissack bought it in Guatemala in the late 1970’s.  Gifted to PTArts 2021.
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 GB3  Todos Santos Cuchumatan. 
Bag made from a huipil from the 
center panel of a huipil with discontinuous supplementary weft brocade designs of zig zags and diamonds, little bit of rick rack neck edge at zipper/top edge. Edge and strap of striped fabric.
Lolli bought at a Thrift Shop for $2.75

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GF9  Placemat from Zacualpa, Guatemala. 
12 X 22 inches.  Backstrap 
woven warp faced blue cotton with orange pin stripe.   Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade in the heavy zig zag/arrow twined look unique to this village, last 1 inch of each end. 
Tourist item?
Lolli bought at a Thrift Shop for 70 cents.